Morocco

At this our last port of call, we settled on an extensive Semester at Sea trip to Marrakesh and the South Atlantic coast of Morocco.  Journeying from Casablanca we entered Marrakesh, the Red City of Morocco, in late afternoon.  Edith Wharton’s description of almost a hundred years ago in her travel memoir In Morocco easily mirrors our own experience when entering the world of the marketplace or souks:

Dark, fierce and fanatical are these narrow souks of Marrakesh.  They are mere mud lanes roofed with rushes, as in South Tunisia and Timbuctoo, and the crowds swarming in them are so dense that it is hardly possible, at certain hours, to approach the tiny raised kennels where the merchants sit like idols among their wares.  One feels at once that something more than the thought of bargaining – dear as this is to the African heart – animates these incessantly moving throngs.

We visited a Berber Pharmacy and were offered potions and remedies for maladies ranging from sinus conditions to digestive ills.  They also presented natural cosmetics and perfumes.  The Berbers hold on to their native traditions and are proud of their heritage having settled in Northern Africa for centuries prior to the Arabs.

The Jardin Majorelle was not on our tour itinerary, but Miller and I escaped to see this lovely spot.  Established in the 1930’s by a local Moroccan painter, Jacques Majorelle, and opened to the public in the 1950’s, it was saved and restored by the French designer Yves Saint-Laurent in the 1980’s.  Saint-Laurent’s Marrakesh home was next door and he chose to have his ashes scattered in the Jardin Majorelle upon his death.  It is a well tended garden with many varieties of cactus, bamboo, bougainvillea, palms and sedums planted against the vivid cobalt blue of Majorelle’s studio.

The following day found us journeying toward the South Atlantic coast of Morocco.  The red color of Marrakesh was soon replaced by the white and blue building materials typical of the coastline.  The former Portuguese city of Essaouria was our lunch destination and we feasted on the fresh catch of this lovely coastal city.  It is easy to see why Essaouria has captured the attention of generations of travelers.  In our own time Orson Welles, Jimi Hendrix, and Mick Jagger have frequented its shores.  We spent the evening at Safi, an industrial town famous for its pottery.

We traveled back to Casablanca driving along the coastline observing the industrial phosphorus development and land that was at times agriculturally rich but at other times barren. A short stop at the town of El-Jajida made us eager to return to this ancient city that had been a major fortress during the Portuguese occupation of Morocco.

In sum, we found that while Morocco is still the land of the souks, it is also an emerging modern country.  Under the leadership of King Mohammed VI, Morocco is rapidly expanding its infrastructure to accommodate its burgeoning tourist industry.  It is also attempting to address the disparities in educational opportunity.  The per capita income is low and economic growth is vital for Morocco to thrive.   We hope one day to return to this fascinating country, but for now we are glad that our next port will be Norfolk, Virginia!

Seeing in Cairo

Our port of call in Egypt was Alexandria, but my impressions of Egypt came almost exclusively from three days in Cairo, the largest city in the Islamic world. Cairo was my destination city for this voyage. I have longed to visit the “Mother of the World” and drink from the Nile for thirty years. Cairo bombards the senses – the smell, the haze, the dust, the light. It is at once mysterious, polluted, crowded, hot, poor, rich, beautiful, awe-inspiring, dangerous, and confusing. I visited the main tourist attractions and was introduced to these through the eyes of Hala, an amazing Egyptian women and guide. She was a well -educated, articulate, and devout Muslim who was able to translate what I saw in ways to deepen understanding and promote appreciation. I saw the pyramids at sunset, at sunrise, and in the heat of the day, gazed at the Sphinx and tried to imagine what transpired there 4000 years ago. I trekked through the desert on a camel – a far different experience as a modern tourist than the caravans of old. I feasted on the treasures housed in the Egyptian Museum including the artifacts from the tomb of Tut-Ankh-Amun discovered by Howard Carter in 1922. The museum building was not air-conditioned (with the exception of a room housing King Tut jewels) and I fear for the preservation of its contents. I purchased wares at the Khan El-Khalili Bazaar where countless numbers have bargained for the best price since the 14th century. I was moved by the pilgrims at the Alabaster Mosque of Mohamed Ali.

All this I take away from Cairo – personal images of places and events that I have only read about in books. But more than the tourist destinations I take the impressions that I have difficulty understanding – beauty in the midst of poverty and squalor. The trash – in the city, in the desert, in the Nile – was arresting and troubling. I saw mile after mile of unfinished apartment buildings in the midst of a city of immense over population. Crossing the street was a nightmare with people, cars, and donkeys all seemingly charting their own course in chaos. But, I also saw the beauty of the people and the night when the heat of the day was done. I experienced the thoughtful engagement of men and women hospitable to foreigners. I was overwhelmed by the depth of their history and the breadth of their humanity. I was reminded that I am not a tourist but a traveler. My camera captures not all that I see in a frame but what I hope to see.

Bulgaria

This is the first time that that Semester at Sea has traveled to Bulgaria.  Upon arrival in Varna you instantly realize that the focus here is enticing tourists to the beaches and casinos.  Located on the Black Sea, Varna attracts vacationers from Germany, Russia, and others from Eastern Europe to what is sometimes called the North Riviera.   One of our most memorable experiences here was the World CEV Challenger Men’s Beach Volleyball Tournament that Claire and I attended.  It was hosted by Varna for the first time and the excitement surrounding the event was apparent with an abundance of free souvenirs.  Even with this focus on the fans, the event was more than a tourist attraction with a display of international competition and 15, 000 euros of prize money to distribute to the members of the top four teams.   (The event program stated “For the first time Varna will be the host of a CEV Challenger tournament, where our players will have the chance to show their abilities, high professionalism and ambition on the court along with players who have taken part in FIVB Swatch World Tour”.)

Bulgaria joined NATO in 2004 and the European Union in 2007 and has been in the process of transforming from a state under communist rule to a full participant in the European economic and political system since 1989.  A young law student who spent time on the ship described Bulgaria in this way.  He said that during the Communist era it was as if the Bulgarian people lived in a zoo – fed and cared for by the government.  In the post Communist era he explained that it was as if they were now in a jungle where only the strong survive.  This situation, he concluded, has been most difficult for those aged 40-55 that were raised in the Communist era and now must survive in a Democratic Republic.  This generation has been termed by several observers as the “lost generation”.  The law student said yet another challenge has been the significant brain drain of young educated people who have left Bulgaria for other countries with greater opportunities.  Over the course of the last twenty years, there has been a significant decrease of population – some believe as many as three million people.

The people of Bulgaria desire a respected presence in the world and stronger voice in European politics but face the draining demand on the “lost generation” as well as issues of poverty and a struggling economy that the country battles every day.  The volleyball tournament seemed to be a diversion from the country’s problems and seeing people energized by the presence of the international community – hosting them for the 1^st time – was encouraging.  It was good to see the “joie de vie” of the Bulgarian people.  They are working hard, but the question remains…can they make it?

Istanbul

If anyone ever suggests you travel to Istanbul, our suggestion is to immediately say yes.  It is in every way a fascinating and remarkable city.  And it is a city of deep paradox where east meets west, Europe meets Asia, a city of ancient monuments and contemporary vitality, an ancient center of Christianity now a largely Muslim city.  It is above all else beautiful.

It is difficult to chart all we experienced in our time in Istanbul but several highlights will perhaps convey a sense of this important city.  First of all Haghia Sophia is monumental.  The ancient center of the Christian faith in Istanbul, it has been a Mosque since the Ottomans captured Constantinople in 1453.  Originally it was the Emperor Constantine’s private chapel, but it was largely rebuilt by the Emperor Justinian in the early 6^th century.  Now a museum,  the ancient Christian mosaics are being restored and the Islamic portions of this vast building maintained.  The memory that emerges is of an ancient hallowed ground with soaring halls and cascading light entering the building from the window around the dome.  Opposite Haghia Sophia is the famous Blue Mosque. Unlike Haghia Sophia, the Blue Mosque is still very much a place of worship for Muslims.  We were able to witness the call to prayer and how men and women retreated to their own separate chambers during one of the five daily times of prayer.  We were also moved by the beauty of the blue Iznik tiles that cover the walls from top to bottom and thus provide the name for this fine 17^th century building.

No visit to Istanbul would be complete without a visit to the Topkapi Palace.  Home to the sultans for 400 years, it was the center of the Ottoman Empire.  Contained within its storied walls are the many treasures of that empire.  Holy relics associated with the prophet Mohammed are encased in jeweled containers, elaborate gifts to the Ottoman rulers are displayed and there are the private rooms for the sultan and his harem.  Our visit provided a partial glimpse into that lost and mysterious world.

To enter the Grand Bazaar is likewise to enter a labyrinth where the past and present somehow peacefully coexist.  We were struck that the same goods available today were likewise available hundreds of years ago.  Rugs, jewelry, spices, and scarves – then as now are the principal items for sale.  They tout it as the largest shopping center in the world and it is indeed vast.  One cannot avoid getting lost in this enormous space and so we did just that wandering endlessly through beautiful and at times affordable treasures.

A day trip up the Bosphorus was yet another highlight. We had lunch in Asia which allowed us to note that we will have the privilege of being on four continents before the end of the summer.  We relaxed as we moved back and forth from Europe to Asia observing the summer retreat houses of Istanbul.  A special dinner in modern Istanbul combined with many hours of wandering the streets concluded our time in this fantastic city.

Aegina, Perdika, and Moni

Wednesday found us up early to journey to Aegina the largest and closest of the Saronic Gulf islands to Athens.  From the port of Piraeus we arrived at Aegina by ferry. Following the guide book’s advice, we took a bus to the small fishing village of Perdika on the south end of the island. Searching for the perfect beach, we asked a friendly looking local for her recommendation.  Using broken English and a lot of pointing she directed us to Moni, a small island just off the harbor.   There we found a beautiful sandy beach (I understand rare in Greece – most are rocky), a secluded cove, and crystal clear water – magic.

Athens Reconsidered

We entered Athens expecting to be glad but not dazzled to see the justly famous monuments of that ancient city.  After all, the Parthenon has been so often photographed, how could it be surprising or new in any way?  This sense quickly dissipated as we climbed the hill leading to the Acropolis that first day.  First of all, we had failed to grasp from photographs the scale and majesty of what was before us.  We walked past ancient theatres before approaching the Propylaia, the entrance to the Acropolis.   The exquisite small temple of Athena Nike was on the right side of the Propylaia.

We found ourselves torn between minding each step as the marble under our feet was quite slick and giving in to the magnetic pull of the Parthenon before us.  In spite of the fact that the Parthenon was covered in places with scaffolding and the fact that we were not allowed to enter the building, the proportion and magnificent scale left a lasting impression.

Soon the beautiful porch of the Erechtheion drew us suddenly in that direction and for the longest time we stood between the two buildings marveling at the scene before us imagining all that had occurred on that spot.  We recalled Pericles, Aristotle, Plato, Lord Elgin….and as we descended the Acropolis we encountered the Areopagos – the spot where St. Paul delivered his sermon, “On an unknown God” to the Athenians.  After walking through the Agora, we wandered back into the Plaka, the district around the Acropolis, finding by chance on one of the back streets a charming traditional taverna.  We spent a magical evening enjoying 15+ mezedes, sipping Greek wine, and reflecting on all we had experienced.

Dubrovnik

Sailing into Dubrovnik on a crystal clear summer day surrounded by the blue waters of the Adriatic Sea, our first impression was the dominance of the walls that surround the old quarter of the city.  Built in the 13th century and rebuilt after the destructive earthquake of 1667, these walls continue to this day to be both the enduring symbol of this lovely city and a continual reminder of the practical need for defense against outside invaders.

On our first full day in Dubrovnik we oriented ourselves by walking the entire distance of the walls.  From this vantage point we fell in love with this city of red tile roofs and stone buildings many of which were constructed in the 17^th century in the years after the earthquake.  Strongly influenced by the Italian Baroque style while not nearly so ornate, the architecture of Dubrovnik conveys a simplicity of line and function that is appropriate to this small Croatian town.  From the walls we spotted numerous church domes and towers (not surprising for this predominantly Catholic city), the petite palaces of the government and merchants that populated this city, the small gardens, the restaurants, the cliff divers jumping from rock cliffs into the Adriatic….We were lead on this hike by second time SAS voyager and UVa Professor Bill Wilkerson.

Our second day found us once again drawn to the walled portion of the city.  More leisurely than the previous day we wandered the narrow streets, purchased typical Croatian items such as coral jewelry, and delicious pear liqueur.  We had an informal dinner by the harbor and enjoyed a chamber music concert in one of the smaller churches.  But the lasting memory of the day was a happen chance conversation with a clerk in what may just be the finest art gallery in the city.  They specialize in the work of the best contemporary Croatian artists.  Soon it was clear that their offerings were not in our price range but as we talked of current Croatian politics and the recent war we were reminded of the continuous practical uses of the walls that we saw as so picturesque.  She described the shelling of the city in the recent civil wars, the great push to rebuild their country, and the continuing efforts of Croatia to enter the European Union.  She described the difficulty of the current economic situation, her own underemployment and questioned whether capitalism would truly work well here.  All in all it was a unique window into how one person viewed life in contemporary Croatia.

On our last full day, we journeyed to the nearby island of Lokrum.  Once the site of a monastery, later the summer retreat of the ill-fated Hapsburg Emperor of Mexico, Maximilian, it offered splendid views of the walled city of Dubrovnik.  We spent a relaxing afternoon walking through this lush and picturesque island and swimming in the clear waters of the Adriatic.

Capri

Miller and I arrived at the Molo Beverello in Naples and planned to either travel to Procida, Capri, or Sorrento for the day.  Our deciding factor was that the Capri ferry was available immediately so after an hour of cruising across the Bay of Naples we arrived to gigantic rock formations dotted with villas. But then ……we ascended to the higher elevations of the island and were rewarded with breathtaking views.  We explored the high end trendy shops but quickly sought the less commercial areas of this charming island.  Walking toward the Arco Naturale we discovered a delightful restaurant situated on the cliffs overlooking the Bay with views of the Amalfi Coast.  Even though the food was simple at Le Grotelle, it was one of the best meals we have had on the trip to date – brushcetta, grilled vegetables, spaghetti with fish sauce, ravioli caprese, and lemon ice cream.  The local red wine complemented the meal.  We were so enchanted with the views and the cooling breezes that we extended our stay over espresso and were the last to depart.

Rome

When I make a list of my favorite cities in the world, Rome is in the top three.  Of course Rome has extraordinary remnants from the classical age and an incomparable legacy of the Renaissance and the Baroque, but what really charms are the relaxed pace, the street scenes, Bernini fountains, seemingly effortless style, shoes, and gelato.  Everyone (and I mean everyone) enjoys gelato here.  The intense heat in the summer makes it a necessity.  My personal favorite is a combination of stracciatella, raspberry and pistachio.

The first day taking the train in from Civitavecchia, we found that we could jump off at the Trastevere station and add valuable time to our schedule – just remember three days is never enough in Rome.   We dropped our bags at the Hotel Abruzzi.   I would certainly recommend this comfortable, reasonable, and well located small hotel to you.  It is located on the Piazza della Rotunda (my favorite Piazza, Miller’s is Piazza Farnese) and overlooks the Pantheon.  We then devoted the afternoon to classical Rome.  In addition to introducing Claire to the Colosseum and the Forum, we climbed to the top of Palentine Hill and were afforded a spectacular view of Rome in addition to seeing where the palaces of ancient Rome stood.  I was surprised to see that some fresco painting was still visible at Augustine’ s house.

We focused on the Vatican the second day.  There is no denying that the crowds are immense, security tight, and you do exhaust yourself mentally and physically in attempting to take it all in.   But….the Vatican Museum might truly house the most magnificent collections in the world.  Even if others compete – the Hermitage, the Louvre – the architecture, the collections, and wealth of the Catholic Church combine to dazzle.

The third day we headed off the beaten path and enjoyed a quiet visit to the Palazzo Doria Pamphilj.  This is the home of the family of Pope Innocent X.  In addition to a remarkable collection developed over many generations, the family history made for an entertaining morning.   Pope Innocent X’s sister in law and perhaps mistress, Olympia Maiddalchini, was quite a strong woman with particular political and business savvy.  She propelled him to pursue his papal ambitions.  The talking statue Pasquino gave her the nickname “Olim – Pia” or “formerly virtuous”!

I haven’t mentioned the food yet (other than gelato) and it was fabulous.  You never seem to have a bad meal in Rome no matter where you go or what you eat.  I do have a favorite restaurant that we returned to on this visit.  Ristorante Al Pompiere is in the former Jewish Ghetto (Via S. Maria Dei Calderari).  If you go there be sure to have the fresh fish (whatever the catch of the day is), fried squash blossoms, and fried artichokes.  My sister-in-law introduced us to the restaurant five years ago and it still performs.

Spain – Cadiz, Jerez, and Seville

The approach to Cadiz was breathtaking as David Geis pointed out the sites in the distance and gave navigational directions to the train station.  We disembarked and made our way immediately to Jerez    where we enjoyed fine tapas and beer.  I have learned to make my way in Spain from one meal to another – café con leche with churros for breakfast, tapas late morning/early afternoon, lunch during siesta, and dinner at ten o’clock!  Jerez de la Frontera is a charming town as well as the center of the sherry industry.  Miller, Claire, and I toured the extensive Gonzales bodega and were delighted with the generous tasting – a dry Tino Pepe fino and a sweeter oloroso. The next day, once again, we rose early to journey to Seville.  Claire brought her roommate and along the way we encountered other friends from the ship which made for a pleasant journey.  The view from the train revealed a flat countryside of chalky soil – a soil that happily retains its moisture through the long hot summer, perfect for cultivating olives, grapes, sunflowers…  Arriving is Seville, we went directly to the Real Alcazar and entered a dream – a palace where rooms and gardens flow together as a seamless whole.  Patios surround every room and the Moorish and Christian influences co-inhabit every space.  At lunch we could not help but reflect upon the fact that in the fourteenth century Islam and Christianity experienced a unique moment of toleration and peace.   We continued our tour after a leisurely lunch at El Giraldillo on the plaza directly in front of the Cathedral.  We visited what is considered the largest Cathedral in Europe begun in 1401.  The bell tower, La Giralda, was the minaret for the mosque that formerly stood on the site.  We returned to Cadiz and spent our remaining time here exploring what some consider the oldest city in Europe – its lovely beaches, its narrow ancient streets, its numerous tapas restaurants, and its baroque cathedral.  The highlight of this time was celebrating Clarie’s twenty-first birthday at El Faro, a restaurant in the old fisherman’s barrio of Cadiz.  We leave shortly for Civitavecchia!